Discovering Egypt’s Treasures: An Unforgettable Balloon Adventure

Some adventures in life lead you to unexpected destinations, and a hot air balloon ride is certainly one of them.

Our journey began early at 6am, a group of 16 departing from our river ship docked in Luxor. We traversed the Nile on a traditional felucca sailing boat, followed by a van ride to a makeshift airfield on the west side of the city. Colorful balloons, lying deflated on the ground, resembled sad clowns, while large wicker baskets capable of holding 30 passengers rested on their sides. The air buzzed with radio chatter as trucks rolled in, transporting gas to aid in the ascent and assist with the landings.

As we awaited our turn, nerves tingled in the air. We were offered tea and given instructions on how to squat for balance upon landing. Finally, at 7:45am, we lifted off into the brilliant Upper Egypt sky, soaring in a basket buoyed by 500,000 cubic meters of hot air.

The sun steadily rose, brightening the scenery as about fifty other balloons floated gently in the vast sky. The burner overhead roared intermittently as our pilot adjusted our altitude, while the only sounds accompanying us were the breeze and the astonished thoughts of our group, captivated by the stunning views of the Nile below.

This balloon ride marked the culmination of an unforgettable seven-night cruise along the Nile aboard Tui’s newest river vessel, Al Horeya. The aerial perspective offered a cinematic view of many sites we had visited throughout the week. As the basket ascended to 1,000 feet, iconic landmarks such as the Karnak and Luxor temples became visible, framed against the lush greenery of Luxor’s suburbs. To the northwest, the Temple of Hatshepsut’s three grand terraces emerged from the golden sands of the Sahara.

If you’re an adventure enthusiast but perhaps a bit cautious at heart, this cruise offers the perfect blend of excitement and comfort. It was my first trip to Egypt, and a significant draw was Tui’s direct flights from Gatwick or Manchester to Luxor, bypassing the chaotic hustle of Cairo and placing us just a 20-minute drive from the airport.

The Al Horeya’s itinerary followed a round trip from Luxor, heading south towards Edfu, Kom Ombo, and Aswan, intensifying the vibrant sights of Egypt as the journey progressed. Additionally, beyond two included shore excursions, there was the option to participate in others starting from just £32.

Initially, I thought I had experienced the pinnacle of Egyptian artifacts after visiting Tutankhamun’s tomb on the first day. However, I quickly realized that King Tut’s resting place paled in comparison to my newfound favorite: the beautifully detailed burial chamber of Rameses V and VI, where hieroglyphs glistened in gold, captivating my attention and drawing my gaze upwards to the vibrant depictions on the vaulted ceiling.

The Al Horeya was a comfortable floating hotel. Once operated by Jaz Cruises, the ship underwent renovations under Tui’s ownership. With a capacity for 141 passengers across 72 cabins, the interiors were tastefully redone in relaxing whites accented with blues and yellows. Though the bathrooms were compact, the spacious bedrooms benefitted from French windows that opened fully, allowing me to enjoy the picturesque views as charming villages drifted past my cabin and sunsets painted the evening sky.

The ship provided ample recreational space with loungers, a hot tub, swimming pool, and two bars on the top deck. Al Horeya offered an all-inclusive experience; local wines, particularly the drinkable Shahrazade rosé, were generously served, and the overall service was commendable.

An interesting aspect of traveling in Egypt is the common question upon return: “Did you fall ill?” Fortunately, I was spared, thanks to generous helpings of hand sanitizer and antibacterial wipes, plus the ship’s kitchen ensured that all food was washed in mineral water—including the omelets!

The dining options consisted of two restaurants. Felucca, an upscale outdoor dining area, featured Egyptian dishes like fattoush salad, mixed grills, and om ali (a milk pudding). The more casual Lazeeza buffet below was a winner, although it took a couple of days to fully savor the flavors, or perhaps the culinary offerings improved as the week went on. I relished delicately presented mussels and smoked salmon starters, hearty mains of sea bass, steak, and spinach tagines, along with ample servings of red velvet cake. Meanwhile, my stash of Imodium pills remained untouched.

Tui rates Al Horeya at five stars, but I would consider it a solid four. The carpeting on the stairways in common areas had some uneven patches, and there wasn’t a turn-down service. If your cabin is near or underneath the observatory lounge on deck four, be prepared to bring earplugs for any quizzes that might extend past bedtime. Fortunately, the all-inclusive service stopped at midnight, so there was no noisy partying at 2am. Sounds from the Nile included late-night music from quayside bars, and due to multiple ships docking, Al Horeya could sometimes be tethered four ships deep, leading to clattering sounds.

Nonetheless, the seasoned local crew followed a well-honed routine: rise early and avoid the crowds, ensuring we often left popular attractions like the Temple of Horus in Edfu by 10am, just as throngs of tourists began arriving to explore the impressive 3rd-century BC shrine.

Onboard, we had the benefit of two knowledgeable Egyptologists, each with distinct styles: Sarwat Hegazy, who was more serious and sarcastic, and Bishoy Michael, who embodied a lighter, playful demeanor. During lunch, Bishoy offered to translate my name into hieroglyphics and proffer a “personality reading.” After rendering my name, he remarked that it signified I disliked those with deceitful tendencies, leading me to tip him £15 for his entertaining effort.

Our week was a delightful blend of relaxation, fun, and mental engagement. Each day brought further understanding of hieroglyphs, recognizing symbols and their meanings.

Visiting Luxor Temple was a stark reminder of the past; where an obelisk once stood, only a stump remained as the original had been relocated to the Place de la Concorde in Paris, prompting thoughts about centuries of plunder.

Bishoy emphasized the importance of preserving Egyptian artifacts, advocating for their return, while Sarwat acknowledged the challenges facing museums and preservation within Egypt, noting that the objects serve as ambassadors, inspiring international visitors to explore the country.

Most shore excursions were half-day trips, with the longest lasting 11 hours, taking us from Luxor to Dendera Temple of Hathor and Abydos. This journey tested our patience as our driver faced some detours due to a road closure, leading us through backroads less frequented by tourists. I found joy in the unexpected moments.

Arriving at Dendera, the walls told stories of humor, anger, and love. In one antechamber, an intimate depiction of Isis and Osiris captured attention, while another panel illustrated a vengeful act against Seth. Sarwat meticulously pointed out that this temple appeared to be the “over-18s” zone, provoking laughter from nearby tourists.

Yet, archaeology in Egypt isn’t limited to risqué tales. In Aswan, I visited the High Dam in the morning, then strolled to the historic Old Cataract Hotel, where Agatha Christie penned “Death on the Nile.” The hotel, now a luxury five-star venue, offered breathtaking sunset views from its terrace overlooking the river.

At Kom Ombo, during one of the free tours, I truly appreciated the ease of a river cruise. We docked around 6pm, the evening air refreshing as I stepped off the ship and into the open temple facing the Nile.

As Bishoy explained an ancient calendar carved into the temple walls, I gazed up at the clear night sky, scattered with stars, with the temple columns framing the celestial scene — Mars glowing red to one side and Jupiter nearby, while Venus and Neptune twinkled behind me.

Like those hot air balloon rides, Nile cruises often land you in moments and places beyond your wildest expectations.

Laura Jackson traveled as a guest of Tui River Cruises, which offers a seven-night all-inclusive package starting from £1,611 per person on the Legends of the Nile itinerary, including two guided tours, flights, tips, and transfers, with an upcoming departure on November 18.